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RC's Guitar Pedalboards

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Gibson S-1 with A-B-C pedalboards A pedalboard is a great way to consolidate all of your guitar effects; it helps reduce wear and tear on the connectors and greatly simplifies setup. I made my first board in the early 1980s and I've built quite a few since. Below you'll find some information about the design and construction of some recent rigs, including three which are designated A, B and C to be used in conjunction with a Morley router (R) to direct the guitar signal.

Here's how the 'A' board came together:

Plans   Plans
Like so many projects these days, this one started out on the computer. I don't have any drafting software, but managed to draw an adequate set of 'blueprints' using an ancient copy of MS Publisher.
     
Materials   Materials
The lumber and most of the hardware came from Home Depot, though it did take a supplemental trip to Ace Hardware to complete the shopping list. The final tab was under $50 since I already had all the necessary electronic components.
     
Measuring   Measuring
With tools and materials in place, it was time to translate the drawings into a real 3-D object. The first step was to transfer all the dimensions from paper to wood.
     
Sawing   Sawing
Since my table saw is currently located in my brother-in-law's shop (40 miles away), I decided to complete this project with hand tools. I probably should have sharpened my cross-cut saw before starting!
     
Drilling   Drilling
This design required a lot of holes, in both the pine 1x2s and the half-inch plywood.
     
Drilling   Countersink
Most of the screws used on the board have flat heads, so it was necessary to use a countersink bit on many of the pilot holes.
     
Chiseling   Chiseling
No table saw = no dado blade, so I had to chisel out the access grooves by hand. The good news is that this task didn't take nearly as long as I thought it would.
     
Parts   Parts
Before long all the required pieces were cut, drilled and chiseled.
     
Trial Assembly   Trial Assembly
A test fitting confirmed that everything was proceeding according to plan.
     
Sanding   Sanding
I spent a lot of time with this little implement. Next time I'll get a better grade of wood or borrow a power sander!
     
Painting   Painting
The unit was disassembled and all the parts were laid out for painting. This is the last time we'll see the naked wood.
     
Assembly   Assembly
This is the painted board before being covered with electronic gear. The main platform is 24x16 and the upper tier is 18x13x2. To keep from getting too mixed up I temporarily labeled everything with a grease pencil.
     
Placement   Test Placement
Here's a shot of the pedals in place before before being mounted. I just wanted to make sure things were going to fit as planned. I also wired everything temporarily and tested all the circuits.
     
Mounting   Mounting
The pedals were mounted from the underside of the board with machine screws. It's easier to make changes if you mount your pedals on top using Velcro, but I've always preferred this more secure method. Changing the configuration later requires drilling some new holes, but that's no big deal.
     
Guyatone   Guyatone
Guyatone Micro Effects have a unique design (no screws--a rubber ring holds the unit together), so it was necessary to drill holes in the base plate in order to mount the pedal to the board.
     
Wiring   Wiring
The cables were organized and tucked out of sight under the upper tier. This picture shows the power cords coiled and taped to the underside of the top section, leaving more room for the 9-volt daisy chains and 1/4-inch instrument cables. The few exposed cords will be tacked down with coax saddles.
     
Surface Mounts   Surface Mounts
The volume/wah pedals were mounted to the top surface of the main board using shelving hardware. I wanted the second pedal (left) elevated so I built a simple platform for it out of 1x2s.
     
Handles   Handles
Years ago I also built my racks and cases, but this time I designed the pedalboard to fit into an existing commercial flight case. There's no room to spare so these handles will make it much easier to move the board in and out of the case.
     
Power   Power
The power supply units (a Harmon Pro and a pair of One-Spots) are plugged into a Furman PlugLock, which was mounted behind the upper tier. The open area next to the Furman is for cord and footswitch storage while the board is in the flight case.
     
Feet   Feet
Ten rubber feet spread out over the underside of the main section (384 square inches) will keep the pedalboard nice and stable.
     
Finished   Finished
Here's the completed board with all the pedals mounted and wired; it ended up weighing 26 lbs. fully loaded (39 lbs. in the case). At this point I realized I'd forgotten to keep track of how many hours I invested in the project.
     
Details   Details
This is a closer look showing some of the components. A signal chain diagram appears below.
     

SIGNAL CHAIN: Gibson S-1 > Korg Chromatic Tuner > Digitech Synth Wah > Boss DF-2 Feedbacker Distortion > Guyatone WR3 Wah Rocker > MXR Micro Flanger > Ross Phaser > Boss DD-6 Digital Delay > DigiTech Jamman Looper > DOD FX-17 Volume/Wah > Digitech JamMan Solo > DOD FX-17 Volume/Wah > Ross G1240 Amp

Below: before and after shots of the 'C' board.

C Board Hardware New A Board

For a recent gig I used only the 'B' and 'C' boards:

A and C Boards

Below you see a diagram of the B-C signal chain with my old Korg guitar synthesizer as the fourth input into the mixer:

RC's A-B GUITAR EFFECTS SIGNAL CHAIN: Gibson S-1 > Morley ABC Router > Guyatone OD2+ Overdrive > Guyatone FL3 Flanger > Guyatone MD3 Delay > Ross Phaser > Digitech Jam Man > DOD FX-17 Volume/Wah Pedal > Korg Chromatic Tuner > Boss AC-2 Acoustic Simulator > Boss DF-2 Feedbacker Distortion > DigiTech Synth Wah > DigiTech XXD Digital Delay > DigiTech Jamman Looper > DOD FX-17 Volume/Wah Pedal > Korg Guitar Synthesizer > Roland KM-4 Mixer > Crest Power Amp

For a more modern synthesizer setup I am now using a Roland GI-20 MIDI Guitar Interface and a Roland XV-2020 Sound Module (below).

MIDI/Synth Setup MIDI/Synth Closeup

The GI-20 and XV-2020 were originally rack-mounted under my amp, but it was hard to access the controls using that configuration, so I stacked the devices and mounted them on a platform on top of the amp (and added a small mixer). The platform fits both my Ross G1240 amplifier and my little Marshall practice amp, and it's much easier to reach while playing. The bungee cords around the handles loop underneath the amp and keep the rig secure. The white card on the expansion slot door is a cheat sheet listing my favorite settings.

Strat with Roland MIDI pickup

Input to the GI-20 is from a Fender Stratocaster equipped with a Roland MIDI pickup (above). I can play my Gibson S-1 (or other non-MIDI guitar) through the VX-2020 using a Sonuus G2M interface (right), but it only works with single notes--no chords.

Strat with Roland MIDI pickup

The signal chain diagram below shows this configuration in use with the 'A' pedalboard:

RC's GUITAR EFFECTS SIGNAL CHAIN: Fender Stratocaster with Roland MIDI Pickup > Roland GI-20 MIDI Interface > Roland XV-2020 Sound Module > Korg Chromatic Tuner > Digitech Synth Wah > Boss DF-2 Feedbacker Distortion > Guyatone WR3 Wah Rocker > MXR Micro Flanger > Ross Phaser > Boss DD-6 Digital Delay > DigiTech Jamman Looper > DOD FX-17 Volume/Wah > Digitech JamMan Solo > DOD FX-17 Volume/Wah > Behringer MX400 Mixer > Ross G1240 Amp

A lot of musical output is possible with this configuration, so it's perfect for creating live film soundtracks or similar mixed-media applications. For more 'conventional' guitar playing, I use an auxiliary board (below).

Rock Pedalboard: Boss DF-2 Super Distortion & Feedbacker > Fulltone OCD > Guyatone WR3 Wah Rocker > Korg Tuner > MXR Phase 90 > MXR Micro Flanger > TC Electronic Flashback Delay > Hofner Analog Delay > Digitech JamMan Solo

Here's how the latest (2012) incarnation of the basic rock board came together:

Lumber After Sawing   Lumber
After some quick sawing, we have the basic building blocks for the new pedalboard: a sixteen inch length of 1x6 and a 16-1/2" x 12" sheet of half-inch plywood.
     
Drilling   Drilling
With the pedals placed and measurements taken, it's time to drill (counter-sink holes will follow for the flat-headed anchor bolts). Most of the pedals will be anchored from underneath using four machine screws.
     
Flashback   Flashback
The T.C. Electronic Flashback pedal (left) is held together with one large bolt in the middle, so that's how it will be anchored to the pedalboard.
     
Powering the MXRs   Powering the MXRs
To accommodate the DC placement on the MXR pedals, I drilled these access holes for the power connectors.
     
Handles   Handles
The second tier spans the entire length of the board, so there won't be room for the full-size handles I normally use. I was prepared to substitute eye-bolts, but then I spotted these cabinet handles at Home Depot and felt they'd be a good fit.
     
Chiseling   Chiseling
There will be about 13 feet of power-cord wiring and 3 feet of 1/4" instrument cable tucked under the upper tier, so it has to be hollowed out. My router was stolen a while back, so this task was accomplished with a chisel. Here's a view at the start of the process.
     
Sanding   Sanding
All the surfaces got a good sanding with papers ranging from coarse to fine.
     
Wood   Wood
Now the wood is ready for painting.
     
Painting   Painting
Several coats of flat black will do the trick. The bottom doesn't get as much attention as the top surface.
     
Wiring   Wiring
Next the pedals are secured to the board and wired. You can see the cables getting tucked out of sight under the upper tier.
     
Completed   Completed
Here's the completed pedalboard: with nine pedals that fit into a standard-size Anvil briefcase.
     
Offset Wah Rocker   Offset Wah Rocker
The Guyatone WR3 is offset slightly to allow an optional stereo footswitch cable to be plugged into the Digitech JamMan pedal on the left.
     
Fulltone OCD   Fulltone OCD
Because the closure thumbscrews on the Fulltone OCD are on the side of the pedal, it was secured to the top of the board using improvised right-angle hardware.
     
Feet   Feet
Eight rubber feet (actually door stops) keep the board stable on any surface.
     
Side View   Side View
Getting the pedalboard in and out of the road case is made easier with the handles seen in this side view.
     
Rear View   Power
This rear view shows the connectors powering the pedals (left and right) and the mounted DC input connector (center) leading to the daisy-chain hidden in the upper tier.
     

And finally, here is a signal chain diagram for the aux pedalboard in conjunction with the MIDI setup:

ROCK BOARD w/MIDI SETUP

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