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RC's Guitar Pedalboards

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Gibson S-1 with A-B-C pedalboards A pedalboard is a great way to consolidate all of your guitar effects; it helps reduce wear and tear on the connectors and greatly simplifies travel and setup. I made my first board in the early 1980s and I've built quite a few since.

Below you'll find some information about the design and construction of some recent rigs, which can be used in conjunction with a router (R) to direct the guitar signal between various boards and finally into the amp.

Here's how one board came together:

Measuring   Measuring
With tools and materials in place, it was time to translate the drawings into a real 3-D object. The first step was to transfer all the dimensions from paper to wood.
     
Sawing   Sawing
Since my table saw is currently located in my brother-in-law's shop (40 miles away), I decided to complete this project with hand tools. I probably should have sharpened my cross-cut saw before starting!
     
Drilling   Drilling
With the pedals placed and measurements taken, it's time to drill; counter-sink holes will follow. Most of the pedals will be anchored from underneath using machine screws. I prefer this arrangement to the more common Velcro method.
     
Flashback   Flashback
The T.C. Electronic Flashback pedal (left) is held together with one large bolt in the middle, so that's how it will be anchored to the pedalboard.
     
Guyatone   Guyatone
Guyatone Micro Effects have a unique design (no screws--a rubber ring holds the unit together), so it was necessary to drill holes in the base plate in order to mount the pedal to the board.
     
Powering the MXRs   Powering the MXRs
To accomodate the DC placement on the MXR pedals, I drilled these access holes for the power connectors.
     
Handles   Handles
The second tier spans the entire length of the pedalboard, so there won't be room for the full-size handles I normally use. I was prepared to substitute eye-bolts, but then I spotted these cabinet handles at Home Depot and felt they'd be a good fit. These will make it possible to get the board in and out of the road case without pulling on the pedals themselves.
     
Chiseling   Chiseling
There will be about 13 feet of power-cord wiring and 3 feet of 1/4" instrument cable tucked under the upper tier, so it has to be hollowed out. My router was stolen a while back, so this task was accomplished with a chisel. Here's a view at the start of the process.
     
Sanding   Sanding
I spent a lot of time with this little implement. All the surfaces got a good sanding with papers ranging from coarse to fine.
     
Wood   Wood
Now the wood is ready for painting.
     
Painting   Painting
Several coats of flat black will do the trick. The bottom never seems to get as much attention as the top surface.
     
Wiring   Wiring
Next the pedals are secured to the board and wired. You can see the cables getting tucked out of sight on the underside of the upper tier.
     
Completed   Completed
Here's the completed pedalboard--with nine pedals that fit into a standard-size Anvil briefcase.
     
Offset Wah Rocker   Offset Wah Rocker
The Guyatone WR3 is offset slightly to allow an optional stereo footswitch cable to be plugged into the Digitech JamMan pedal on the left.
     
Fulltone OCD   Fulltone OCD
Because the closure thumbscrews on the Fulltone OCD are on the side of the pedal, it was secured to the top of the board using improvised right-angle hardware.

12/16 Update: My OCD finally kacked out. I have replaced it for the time being with an E-Wave Texas Drive.

     
Feet   Feet
Eight rubber feet (actually door stops) keep the board stable on any surface.
     
Side View   Floor Flanges
For years I played only while standing and always preferred pedalboards that laid flat on the floor, but these days I occasionally play while seated, and I have to admit I like having the board tilted at those times. I put these floor flange assemblies on the two back corners so the board can be tilted at an angle. When disassembled, the board lies flat and still fits into the case.
     
Rear View   Power
This rear view shows the connectors powering the pedals (left and right) and the mounted DC input connector (center) leading to the daisy-chain hidden in the upper tier. A signal chain diagram appears below.
     

SIGNAL CHAIN: Gibson S-1 > Korg Chromatic Tuner > BOSS DF-2 Feedbacker Distortion > Fulltone OCD Overdrive > Guyatone WR3 Wah Rocker > MXR Micro Flanger > MXR Phase 90 > TC El;ectronic Flashback Delay > Hofner Analog Delay > Digitech Man Solo > Ross G1240 Amp

Below: before and after shots of a supplemental pedalboard.

C Board Hardware New A Board

Two boards used together for a recent gig:

A and C Boards

Here's a diagram of a two-board signal chain with my old Korg guitar synthesizer as an additional input into the mixer:

RC's A-B GUITAR EFFECTS SIGNAL CHAIN: Gibson S-1 > Morley ABC Router > Guyatone OD2+ Overdrive > Guyatone FL3 Flanger > Guyatone MD3 Delay > Ross Phaser > Digitech Jam Man > DOD FX-17 Volume/Wah Pedal > Korg Chromatic Tuner > Boss AC-2 Acoustic Simulator > Boss DF-2 Feedbacker Distortion > DigiTech Synth Wah > DigiTech XXD Digital Delay > DigiTech Jamman Looper > DOD FX-17 Volume/Wah Pedal > Korg Guitar Synthesizer > Roland KM-4 Mixer > Crest Power Amp

For a more modern synthesizer setup I am now using a Roland GI-20 MIDI Guitar Interface and a Roland XV-2020 Sound Module (below).

MIDI/Synth Setup MIDI/Synth Closeup

The GI-20 and XV-2020 were originally rack-mounted under my amp, but it was hard to access the controls using that configuration, so I stacked the devices and mounted them on a platform on top of the amp using sheet-metal brackets; I also added a small mixer.

The platform fits both my Ross G1240 amplifier and my little Marshall 15-watt practice amp, and it's much easier to reach while playing. The bungee cords around the handles loop underneath the amp and keep the rig secure. The white card on the expansion slot door is a cheat sheet listing my favorite settings.

Strat with Roland MIDI pickup

Input to the GI-20 is from a Fender Stratocaster equipped with a Roland MIDI pickup (above). I can play my Gibson S-1 (or other non-MIDI guitar) through the VX-2020 using a Sonuus G2M interface (right), but it only works with single notes--no chords (more on this below).

Strat with Roland MIDI pickup

The photo and signal chain diagram below show this configuration used in conjunction with my primary pedalboard:

RC's GUITAR EFFECTS SIGNAL CHAIN: Fender Stratocaster with Roland MIDI Pickup > Roland GI-20 MIDI Interface > Roland XV-2020 Sound Module > Korg Chromatic Tuner > Boss DF-2 Feedbacker Distortion > Fulltone OCD Overdrive > Guyatone WR3 Wah Rocker > MXR Micro Flanger > MXR Phase 90 > TC Electronics Flashback Delay > Hofner Analog Delay > DigiTech JamMan Solo > Behringer MX400 Mixer > Ross G1240 Amp



Below you'll find a recent (Sept. 2013) monophonic guitar synth setup.
It makes use of a 1990s Alesis NanoSynth sound module I found on eBay:

Monophonic MIDI setup: A/B Box > Sonuus G2M MIDI Converter > Alesis NanoSynth > A/B Box


Here's how the project came together:

Wood   Wood
These are the two wooden components after measuring, marking, cutting, drilling and chiseling.
     
Hardware   Hardware
This view shows some of the hardware required for the project. Visible in the upper left is the carved notch that will hold the tail end of the daisy chain (right).
     
Sonuus MIDI Converter   MIDI Converter
A Sonuus Guitar-to-MIDI Converter will be surface-mounted to the upper tier using these simple brackets fabricated from sheet metal. I also cut a small hole in the battery door to accomodate an AC/DC adapter.
     
Test Mounting   Test Mounting
Before sanding and painting the wood, I mounted and tested all the components one last time. They include the Alesis NanoSynth sound module, the Sonuus Guitar-to-MIDI converter, and two A/B foot-switches to control the signal input and output.
     
Completed Board   Completed Board
Here is the completed board after the wood was sanded and painted. It measures 12x11 inches and weighs 5 lbs. I was originally tempted to reduce the footprint a little bit, but it turns out I really needed all that space under the upper portion to cram in all the wiring.
     
Details   Details
This picture shows one of the brackets mounting the Sonuus to the top surface--all other components are mounted from underneath. Also visible are some of the connectors and the cables disappearing under the upper tier of the unit.
     
Connectors   MIDI Connections
On the left is the MIDI input for the Alesis (from the Sonuus adapter); on the right are the RCA stereo outputs. Also visible is the AC/DC jack for the power daisy-chain.
     
A/B Switch   A/B Switch
Here you see the stereo RCA output from the Alesis being adapted to 1/4" mono for the 'A' input of the left-hand A/B box. The 'B' input is the guitar bypass. These powered A/B boxes also include LEDs and potentiometers for each channel.
     

The photo and signal chain diagram below show the monophonic Guitar-to-MIDI board used in conjunction with my primary pedalboard:

Monophonic Guitar-to-MIDI Board with Rock Board

Monophonic Guitar-to-MIDI Board with Rock Board

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